Andrew’s Reptiles • Care & Education

Bearded Dragon Lighting & UVB

Choose and position heat, UVB, and visible light so your dragon can bask, digest, and retreat into shade.

Updated October 7, 2026 • For owners of central bearded dragons (Pogona vitticeps)

Heat, UVB, and visible light do different jobs

Bearded dragons are ectotherms: body temperature depends mainly on their surroundings. Heat supports activity and digestion; UVB enables vitamin D3 production, which helps them use dietary calcium. Bright visible light supports a useful daytime environment, but an ordinary LED or heat bulb does not supply UVB.1, 2

Nutritional metabolic bone disease can result from inadequate calcium, D3, UVB, or heat. Weakness, tremors, a soft jaw, swollen limbs, difficulty walking, or fractures need veterinary assessment. Replacing a bulb alone is not treatment for advanced disease.2

Use a timer for a consistent daytime light cycle, generally around 12 hours as a starting point, with darkness at night. Measure the thermal gradient and basking surface; a bulb’s wattage cannot tell you the temperature your dragon experiences.1, 3

T5 and T8: size and output

TubeWhat it meansPractical difference
T5 HOA slim tube, approximately 5/8 inch in diameter, designed for a high-output fixtureGenerally projects useful UVB farther than a comparable standard T8; our preferred format for larger dragon enclosures.
T8A wider tube, approximately 1 inch in diameter, in a matching T8 fixtureUsually needs a shorter lamp-to-dragon distance for comparable exposure; mesh can make adequate delivery harder.

The “T” size does not specify a UVB dose. T5 also exists in normal-output versions; choose a reptile T5 HO UVB lamp and compatible reflector/ballast. A plant-growing T5 tube is not automatically a UVB lamp. T5 and T8 tubes are not interchangeable.4, 5

What do 5.0, 10.0, 6%, 12%, and 14% mean?

These labels describe an approximate UVB share of a lamp’s output, not the amount reaching your dragon. A higher percentage does not automatically mean a safer or better setup. Tube power, reflector, mounting distance, mesh, and the closest accessible perch all affect exposure. Even two lamps marked “10%” can deliver different results.4

Common optionsHow to choose
Zoo Med 5.0 / Arcadia 6%Lower-output options within their respective ranges. Use the exact system’s chart; do not assume a low percentage is sufficient through mesh in a tall dragon enclosure.
Zoo Med 10.0 / Arcadia 12%Common options for basking/desert species. Match mounting and reflector to the manufacturer’s species and distance guidance.
Arcadia 14% DragonA powerful option for deeper setups, requiring careful distance and exposure checks.

Our conservative 14% recommendation: Do not allow a dragon within 24 inches of the lamp, measured to its back at the highest place it can reach. This is Andrew’s Reptiles’ recommendation, not a universal manufacturer minimum: Arcadia publishes closer distances for specific reflected fixtures. Use the exact chart and, ideally, measured UV Index (UVI) to confirm that your chosen distance provides suitable exposure.6, 7

A 24-inch-tall enclosure does not automatically give 24 inches of clearance—substrate, basking rocks, branches, and the dragon’s body reduce it. If the intended system cannot deliver suitable UVB with safe clearance, choose a different lamp or mounting arrangement.

Broad coverage, overlap, and shaded retreats

We prefer a long linear fixture running along the enclosure’s length rather than a small point source. If you use a full-length UVB tube, provide substantial fully shaded areas and solid hides that block direct UVB; every part of the floor should not receive the same exposure. Full-length coverage is our layout preference, not a requirement for every enclosure.

Place useful UVB over the warm basking area so the dragon can access heat and UVB together. It must also be able to retreat to cooler, lower-UV areas. Secure the fixture above the animal, keep glass and plastic out of the UVB path, and account for mesh attenuation. Check exposure at the dragon’s back, not just at the floor.3, 6, 7

A UVI meter, such as a Solarmeter 6.5, helps you map the basking and shade zones. Follow the manufacturer’s bearded-dragon guide for the complete system; a phone light sensor is not a UVB meter.6, 7

Why we prefer tubes over coils and mercury vapor

Coil and compact bulbs

We do not recommend a coil/compact bulb as the main UVB source for a bearded dragon. A small lamp creates a much narrower exposure area than a long tube, making broad coverage harder to achieve. Historical investigations documented eye and skin injuries from certain lamps with excessive or abnormal short-wavelength UV output.5, 8

The accurate term for the reported eye injury is photokeratoconjunctivitis—UV damage to the cornea and conjunctiva, sometimes described as an eye “sunburn.” Those cases do not establish that every modern coil bulb burns the retina. Persistent eye closure, swelling, rubbing, or avoidance after a lighting change warrants prompt veterinary advice and a review of the lamp.

Mercury vapor bulbs

Mercury vapor combines heat and UVB in one localized lamp. We prefer separate heat and linear UVB because a dragon then has broader opportunities to obtain UVB without remaining under one hot basking spot. That flexibility also makes heat and UVB easier to adjust independently. Mercury vapor is not inherently unusable, but it is not our preferred pet-dragon setup.9

When should you replace the UVB bulb?

A lamp can still glow after useful UVB output declines. Record the installation date, keep the reflector clean according to its instructions, and check the exact model’s replacement guidance.

SystemManufacturer guidance
Zoo Med ReptiSun T5 HOReplace after 12 months when used 10–12 hours per day.
Arcadia D3+ Dragon T5Manufacturer lists a 12-month lamp life before replacement.
T8 or another modelFollow that model’s instructions. Do not assume all T8 lamps have a six-month life; Zoo Med lists 12 months for its T8 ReptiSun 5.0.

Replace sooner if a lamp is damaged or measured output is no longer appropriate. Recheck distances and UVI when changing bulbs or fixtures; a fresh lamp or different reflector can change exposure.3, 6, 10

References & further reading

Veterinary and research sources support general care; manufacturer pages describe individual products. Our recommendations are starting points, not a substitute for an individual veterinary plan.

  1. VCA: Bearded Dragons — Housing.
  2. Merck Veterinary Manual: Nutritional, Metabolic, and Endocrine Diseases of Reptiles.
  3. Zoo Med: ReptiSun T5 HO instructions.
  4. Zoo Med: Lighting & UVB Education.
  5. Zoo Med: Associate Lighting Training.
  6. Arcadia: D3+ Dragon 14% lamp.
  7. Arcadia: ProT5 UVB kit and UVI table.
  8. Photodermatitis and photokeratoconjunctivitis in a ball python and a blue-tongue skink (2010). Published veterinary case report; not a claim about all current lamps.
  9. LLLReptile: UVB lamp types.
  10. Zoo Med: T8 ReptiSun 5.0.